Andiamo agli Uffizi!

We finally had our first visit to the Uffizi. While I could have gone a while back, Urie's swim schedule keeps us pretty busy. However, the first of many visits (I am sure) took place on Thursday.

The collection of art on display (which is a minute percentage of what was amassed by the Medici and others) is interesting and includes Greek and Roman classic pieces (statues, friezes), a lot of Italian Renaissance paintings and other objets d'art.

Outside, Waiting for Prof. Baldoni

Inside Corridor

Le Amiche

Due Studentesse

Fra Filippo Lippi

 Fra Filippo Lippi's painting of the Madonna and Child is interesting in several ways.Lippi, as his "Fra" title indicates, was a friar, who fell in love with a nun (the model for Mary in this painting--Lucrezia Butti). Notice that Mary is not dressed in typical jewish garb (simlah or ketoneth) but rather has a dress and veil that are more in line with Florentine fashion cerca 1450s. The painting is dated 1465 and belonged to the Medici family. It's one of Lippi's better known works, painted soon before his death. The angel (dressed in white) is presumably a representation of his son Filippino (a future painter) who was born of the union of friar and nun.

The portrait was inspired by Flemish schools in its depiction of an open window and background scenery, but the choice of colors is completely Lippi's and a bit avant-gardiste for the paintings of the time. Of particular interest: the facial features: skin, eyes, etc, that will be picked up by Botticelli (Lippi's student), better known by all nowadays (though it wasn't so when he was alive). We are to see La Primavera during our next visit.

Some of the students in Renaissance Art History class presented information about certain paintings, and we are all the better for it!

Venusa Pudica

This statue of the modest Venus will inspire other works (again, Botticelli's Venus in one of his most famous painting. (Will post pictures at a later date.) The Medici were quite proud of their collection (mostly Lorenzo the Magnificent--who was known for poetry writing and a keen interest in Asian porcelain) and who had a stanza prepared for his best work. The room with the red velvet walls incorporates the four elements of nature. The ceiling, which starts at the base of the dome and is barely visible here--look for the polka dots, top of the picture--is, in reality, covered in mother-of-pearl shell shapes to remind the guests of the palazzo of water. The Venus is this room was a particularly prized statue that Lorenzo brought to his collection.

One of the "Special Rooms"

Taking a Break while Listening to the "Whispers."

Flemish Painting

Italian "Flemish-inspired" Painting

Some major differences in Flemish and Italian paintings: the frames (much more somber and devoid of fioritures than the Italian counterpart). The Flemish model seems imprisoned by the frame while the Italian model is given more room to breathe (both at the top and sides of the man). I still contend that Flemish painters were masters of their art and should not be judged in comparison to another style. (I still love my excursions to Rubens house in Antwerp with Daph. Miss you, my museum daughter!)

View of the Duomo from the Fourth Floor of the Uffizi

I've pretty much repeated information we received from Luca and the students (Kerry, Alex, Jillian and Lexi), or information gleaned while watching an inordinate amounts of documentary on Italian painters with Urie. (We've moved on to Napoleon, having depleted our Italian collection. Suggestions welcomed!)

Next post: Marrakech!

Food, Glorious Food!

This past week, students taking the culinary class had a cooking lesson at the famed Florence's Great Chefs. Because the professor for the class was sick, I had to accompany them to the building where the lesson took place and where we learned to make lava cakes and a dessert whose name I can't quite recall.

Florence Chef

Easy to Make!

Times Two

Served with Ice Cream

Plate Licking Good

Gone Too Soon

Our travels back to Palazzo Capponi were the stuff legends are made of. We left the cooking school during what I would call Italian rush hour. The bus, in which we squeezed our 26 extra bodies was packed, before we even set foot in it. But braving the wrath of the conductor, we piled in, squished but excited by the sugar buzz we'd just had. Sardines in olio di oliva!Imagine my surprise when the bus driver, at one point, pulled over, turned off the lights in the bus, and just stopped and waited. For what? I don't know. A strike? A capitulation? We will never know, but after sweating for a few minutes in the dark, we got off and walked the rest of the way home.

I had decided to make brownies for the students that evening, the thunder of which was stolen by the lava cakes we ate at the cooking school. They still disappeared fairly quickly, and we are all in need to exercise from so much sugar.

Alex

Lizzie

The next day, Chiara brought me a surprise. In a conversation, I had mentioned that I love "millefeuilles" a.k.a. Napoleons (don't ask why it's called that in English!). She brought some for Urie and me, and Hmmmmm! Delicious! The perfect mix of flaky crust, creme patissiere and sugar. Sweet, light, delightful! The presentation of the dessert is beauty itself. I had not had a millefeuilles since 1990 something, in the port of Baltimore, and this one was even better than the previous! (People, you don't know how many times I have read the recipe and watched videos on how to make this dessert. Some day...Some day.)

They Say It's Not the Package....

...But What's Inside That Counts!

For Valentine's Day, Urie and I went to Quatro Leoni, a restaurant two streets away from our place. The students had recommended the pear and asparagus "ravioli" (it's not really ravioli), and I had it for the primo piatto. (Recipe found online: http://www.thekitchn.com/italian-recipe-fiocchetti-with-pears-and-parmesan-cream-recipes-from-the-kitchn-190991.) For the next dish, I had chicken while Urie had a steak that could have fed half of the gypsies in this town. Neither of us finished our meal, but we had a good time surrounded by French and American tourists.

Pear Asparagus Fiochetti(?)

Steak Bigger than Urie's Stomach

Primo Piatto: Pici di Something

I also had an excellent gelato this weekend on my way back from the cinema. I cannot live without movies, but I am limiting my frenzy to one a month. Dubbed in Italian, I understood perhaps 95% of it. It helps that I am reading a book in Italian. It's a slow process, but I have read 76 pages since Friday, and hope to finish it before springbreak ends. (Springbreak starts Friday.)

My Valentine's Day Date

Late notice: Michele Ferrero (inventor of the Nutella) died yesterday (02/14/15) at the age of 89. Urie had a moment of silence in his memory, thanking him for the bounty that provides 60% of his (Urie's) food consumption on any given day!

A Tale of Two Cities

Like most cities that have a long history, Florence has an “old” version of itself and a newer more modern area that outskirts the first. We live closer to the “old town,” which is not to say that we live primitively; quite the contrary. Our palazzo is located near all points of interests, from a touristic perspective and offers all the comforts we need. We are within the walls of the city (the remains of which can be seen on various street corners).

Side View of the Porta Romana

 I jog, when motivated, to the Porta Romana where a fine dog park nearby offers me canine company and an oblong flat circuit where my MP3 and I exercise without shame. (Florence has a running club—20 Euros to join—that meets every Wednesday night to  roam the town at the speed of gazelles while dressed like models. Even the slowest of runners here is vested in the best and latest moisture-wicking, ventilated bionic gear. All look ready to run a marathon in style while I look ready to crack open a diet soda and a tube of Pringles in front of the tv. I must mention that I forgot my running outfit in VA. I thought I had packed it but it is nowhere to be seen, so I wear black pants and a long sleeve shirt. At the very least, I have running shoes but no running socks—also left behind.)

Porta Romana

The sidewalks are narrow and the streets precarious. The pavement of old cobbles necessitates vigilance, especially with weak ankles which I've had from the time I was old enough to sprain/break each of them. The streets are very narrow but beautiful. However, it would be a mistake to let myself be distracted by the scenery and the architectural beauty of the place. It might mean personal contact with the “gifts” of Florence’s four-legged furry friends. (I saw a man picking up after his dog the other day; I almost kissed him!)

Urie and I have devised several running paths: Along the Arno one way; along the Arno, the other; over the many bridges; to the park near the pool; to the park near the gate. We have not attempted the Boboli gardens because you need a museum card to access them, which we have—but I doubt the curator would appreciate us running up and down the paths made for appreciation of plants, flowers, and landscape designs.

The Dog Park Where I Run (trail is on the right)

So running, because of the narrowness of the streets and sidewalks can be challenging. Still, on a beautiful day, it is fun to hit the pavement and do a spin around town. (I am easily distracted. I saw a poster yesterday announcing a play with Claudio Bisio, whom I saw in the movie Benvenutti al Sud a couple of years ago. Won't see this play; I will be out of the Schengen zone when it has its "run.")

The Sidewalks Are Narrow

And Uneven (sometimes)

Shopping also has two faces: The "supermarket" and the farmers' market. Urie and I do both. We buy the typical milk, cheese, meats, paper products, bread at the supermarket and the fruits and veggies from a cute lady who often throws in a bag of smoked almonds when I stop by. Of course, there is a huge central market place but I have yet to venture there to buy anything. It's a bit intimidating at first to go in the market where everyone knows how to behave except for me! The food is fresh and the atmosphere inviting. Picture to come.

Old town, newer areas; old style market, newer market, Florence has something to offer to everyone who will take the time to discover its beauty. It's the perfect place for a study-abroad experience, and I feel priviledged and lucky to be here.

History, Costumes and Silk: Sew Me the Money!

As Urie and I are venturing to Pisa tomorrow, we decided to take it easy today. I slept in (awoke at 9:00 a.m. or so), then ventured to Palazzo Pitti. Seriously, our place is just a block away from a most beautiful ducal palace turned museum in Firenze.

Inner Court of Palazzo Pitti (See previous entry of outside)

This was my second visit to the Pitti (see very first entry) but not my last, as I have yet to see the Boboli gardens. While I had seen the art gallery previously, I concentrated my efforts on the porcelain, argentry and costume wings of the palace.

Objets d'art

Cameo Collection of Daily Scenes

Cosimo I (the first Medici to have an official noble title on Florentine soil--remember they were bankers) married the daughter of the Viceroy of Napoli, la bella Eleonora. Not content to raise her brood in the Palazzo Vecchio via Larga,  she bought the Palazzo Pitti (which is ginormous) and added to the construction thereof to meet her living standards. The palazzo is a rectangular set of buildings with inner court, posterior gardens, and wings aplenty. (And let's not forget the stairs!)

Some of the rooms were used for official duties, assembly with the duke and the court. Some rooms were for private use only, as the one below.

Private Appartment

One of Many Staircases

Eleonora's marriage was a happy one and produced 11 children, though most died early or young. One son was even, according to rumors, killed by his older brother, who followed him quickly to the grave ("offed" by his father in anger).


In reality, they both died of malaria (the bodies were exhumed not long ago and studied by a team of forensic anthropologists), and Eleonora followed them to the tomb two weeks later.

The pieces I wanted to see in particular were the burial clothes of Cosimo, Eleonora and their son Garzia. As I said, the bodies were exhumed not long ago (in the last two decades) but had also been tempered with in the 1940s. The latest endeavor even brought to light a piece of garment that had been ignored in the previous opening. The clothes were painstakingly put together again from remnant pieces found after the second great war (some dissolving to the touch into fabric powder).  What is left is kept under dimmed lighting in a humidity-free environment.

Burial Dress

Bodice and Socks

Aside from Garzia's outfit, Cosimo and Eleonora's burial clothes are barely leftover rags that lets one see what once was but no longer is.  (We can blame body decomposition for the damages.) Because of contagion and the rush to bury her, it is said that Eleonora's dress was not properly fastened and that one of her stockings had been put on backwards. She was wearing an everyday dress rather than something to represent her standing in society as there was no time to make her a princely attire for the occasion.

Garzia, Deat at 15

His Cape

Next to that  very dark room, I saw an array of fashion costumes from the late 1800s to nowadays, which included a substantial collection of 1960 pieces. They were of lesser interest to me, simply because I am reading a book titled Florence and the Medici by J.R. Hale, and have developed an obsessive interest in that family in particular.

Newer collection at the Pitti:

Beautifully Executed

It's in the Details

So far, my favorite museum has not been the Pitti but the lesser known museo San Marco, which housed dominican friars up until not so long ago. Commissioned by Cosimo (pater patraes--not Cosimo I, who comes from another branch of the family), the museum contains a series of cells with particular frescoes painted by Angelico. Unfortunately, I did not have my camera on Thursday when we visited.

We left our place in a hurry in fluvial conditions, so the camera was less important than grabbing an umbrella. I will go again, sans Urie, to take pictures of that beautiful yet simple museum. (I loved the architecture and the idea that Cosimo had his own private cell when he wanted to meditate away from the demands put upon him by his position in the city.)

1910s

Beading Not Apparent

Love the Boots

An Uneventful Week (Just the Way I Like Them)

So I promised a post about present-day events rather than a series of photos about the past. Here’s my everyday routine (somewhat close to what it is I do while in Italy).

But first, a bit of news: I was able to connect with Gwendoline on Facebook and had a good talk with her. For some of you who may not know it, my daughter is in Benin, Africa, on a 27-month assignment with the Peace Corps. It’s hard to get in touch with her because she has limited access to the internet and I am not online at the same time she is. My phone here doesn’t work so Viber is out. At any rate, all is well and she is doing superbly, as attested by this picture which I stole from her FB page. (She is preparing a cake in a Dutch over.) (Please like her project page on FB: https://www.facebook.com/zikorabenin )

The Apple Doesn't Fall Far from the Motherly Tree

 So, the routine: After breakfast, Urie goes (twice a week) to the British Institute for his Italian class and I work on different projects I have (a combination of work—website when necessary, freshman emails and advising, syllabus revamping for the ADP program, grading assignments for my students here—or personal stuff (working on several stories I started a while back).

When Urie gets home, we either go shopping for food (an almost daily task as Urie is growing and eating my budget straight to the poorhouse!). We stop by the grocery store or buy our veggies from the farmers’ market on piazza Santo Spiritu.  (Will add the pictures later; am having problems uploading them)

Piazza Santo Spiritu

Same

On Our Way to CONAD

On TW, I have office hours in the computer room. On MTh I have class either at 3:30 or at 5:00 p.m. Urie swims on MWF from 2:30-4:30; TTh 6:30-8:00 p.m. (with a 50-minute walk before and after the swim). I usually read a book while he swims, or I bring my computer and work on aforementioned writing. In the evening, I cook dinner, Urie takes care of the dishes; we talk, we walk, and then we watch a documentary before bed.

We’ve seen documentaries about the Medici (four parts), Michelangelo (two parts), Brunelleschi, Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci (two parts; really liked that one), Botticelli,  and a general one on Florence. There’s more to come! Anyone interested, I can send you the links. (We are about to start a series on the Borgias.)

On weekends, if I’m not on call, we visit museums. We’ve seen the Galileo museum, the duomo, San Lorenzo church (where some Medicis are buried), Palazzo Pitti, plus the ones we see while we accompany the art history class on tours. I've bribed Urie this past weekend: San Lorenzo followed by McDo.

McDo Salad with Olive Oil Dressing (the only choice)

We’ve been to the movies once to watch The Theory of Everything. I sometimes link to RAI direct tv on my computer and watch an Italian movie (of which I understand perhaps 65%). We walk (again and a lot), we jog, we explore, we relax.

The JMU staff is really fantastic to work with. One of our students (and a former classmate of mine!) was sick with a 104 degree temp this past night. Elena (our resident advisor) called the doctor who promptly showed up with his med bag and examined our sick patient. Diagnosis: the flu. Urie and I went to the only pharmacy opened on Sunday near the train station at piazza Santa Maria Novella. I was doing quite well in Italian, getting the prescription filled but asked Urie for a 10-cent coin and the pharmacist switched to English when he heard mine.

On our way back, I took a few pictures of the fashion district: Armani, Gucci, Hermès (of which I saw an interesting little documentary on Sunday Morning about a month ago--which inspired another story I am working on), Prada, Tiffany, Dolce, Dior, Omega, and several Italian designers whose name I cannot recall. Some of the designer shops:

Great Purses and Scarves

Gucci Junior (Urie's comment: "Why would anyone want to pay 345 Euros for a pair of pants the kid will outgrow in a month?"

My Favorite! Love Anything Armani... Except the Price!

Save the Queen (Not Italian)

Need I Say More?

Pucci and Dolce Gabbana (Cool Clothes)

Once Owned an Omega for about Two Weeks! (Price non-negotiable)

Love these Suits

We like to window shop. You can’t go in; in Italy, if you go inside a store it’s purposefully to buy something. You don’t go and try clothes without buying. I have seen amazing clothes in the windows (they change the display every other day, it seems), and clothing I could sew better if I had the time. The Dior window, for example, had an atrocious top with three different mismatched fabrics (both in pattern and quality) for a mere 1,200 Euros (not pictured). The Armani store, however, had beautiful suits (none of which would be of interest to my son who’d rather wear sweat pants or jeans any day of the week).

We did see absolutely gorgeous dishes, a set that was pure beauty. The price of the soup tureen was only 4,950 Euros. The soup bowl was practically given at 545! Needless to say, if anyone were to buy the whole set, it would “set” them back several thousand euros; perhaps my yearly salary at JMU! Thus, we will continue eating on our IKEA everyday  dishes at home and be thankful, when we break a plate, that I didn’t witness $900 go to pieces.

Meanwhile, Urie and I found that La Traviata (Verdi) is being presented in two days in a historical church. He is game to accompany me, so we may have use for our (cheap!) fineries brought here for special events which have not happened. (The Belgium program, which I did four years ago, was a business-based program and required us to attend several dinners and banquets we have not had to deal with in Italy!) So perhaps opera for us, unless that is the day we go to Pisa to make up for our postponed day. (I prefer to stay nearby when a student is sick so Pisa, which we had planned to see today, awaits. And hopefully its famous tower does not fall down in the meantime!)

Well, off I am, to do the "humble" dishes!