Monday, March 16, 2015

We, Barbarians, Have Conquered Roma

Rome was not built in a day... neither does it take one to see its splendors. Unfortunately, we had very little time in the eternal city, which means that I will have to come back to see some of the sights (sites) before I head back to the USA. We arrived around noon after taking a train from Florence and a bus from the station to make it to the center of town. (Packing 36 people with suitcases on a bus is not as easy as it may seem!) The day was beautiful and sunny, and we met our tour guide in the lobby of our hotel after a quick lunch. (The hotel where we are staying is a modernized 15th or 16th century building, and belongs to Goldilocks, a Roman who was born and partially raised in Australia, and who showed half of the students to the other hotel he owns.)
Hotel Navona
For the next few hours we went to the Colosseum, the Forum, the Pantheon, the Wedding Cake and other spots to get a bit of history and pictures. Our tour guide, Federico, comes from a long line of tour guides and has taken JMU groups around town for several years. He was interesting, funny, and energetic, making us walk miles of history and landmarks. (I am posting just a few of my favorite pictures, though I must have taken hundreds more.)
The Forum
Urie Assists


Roman Temple

Love this Pic!

More Ruins


Column in the Forum
By the time the tour ended and we were deposited back to our hotel, I had serious back pain, so Urie and I ate dinner and went to bed early. (I know...! A once-in-a-lifetime experience... but  my back was rebelling, and I needed to conserve energy and my feet for the next day.)

Location of Cesare's Death
I will say this: I cannot fully express the feelings of being in the midst of what was once the birthplace of the Roman empire. That and getting slapped on what should have been "me arse" but ended up being my thigh by a homeless man who vociferated a few words I still wonder about. I was taking a picture of a ruin when the barbarian stood up and came straight at me, palm opened. While I was admiring the beauty of his country, I guess he was admiring my panoramic backside, but having sat against the wall for apparently hours, his legs failed him and he missed target entirely. (Meanwhile Urie was snapping pics on his phone, oblivious that his mother was being harrassed. Good thing too, or he may have been tempted to butterfly knife him and carve SPQR on my aggressor. More to come on the butterfly knife issue.)

Stripped of its Original Marble

The Bottom of the Interior Was Flooded by Nero to Provide Him with His Own Artificial Lake also Used for Naval Battles

Seats of the Nobles

The Columns and Rafters Held a Floor on which Sand Was Placed for Gladiator Combats

Mother and Son

The Holes Held the Marble Blocks through a System of Pegs

It's in the Details

The Pantheon
Ceiling Once Covered in Gold


Raffaelo's Sepulchre
On Saturday, we met Federico at 8:00 a.m. sharp and started another tour that lasted until 3:00 p.m. Thankgoodness, Rome has natural water springs and many fountains to refill bottles (our only "source" of sustenance until we ate a combination of lunch/dinner--and the best calamari I have had in a decade.) On this day, we hit the Vatican museums, the Sistine Chapel, St-Peter's basilica and St-Peter's Square. We were moved through room after room of art: frescoes (including Raffaelo's famed School of Athens, Michelangelo's Creation of Adam--part of the whole AMAZING ceiling display, his Last Judgment (which he started painting when he was in his sixties), sculptures, sumptuous tapestries, and numerous objets d'art that the Popes have accumulated over the last centuries. (We could not take pictures in the Sistine Chapel--Sorry!)


Bridge to the Palace of Angel (Pope's Former Residence Conceptualized by Adrian)

St-Peter's Square

The Basilica

Cool Passageway

Plural Form Because Lots of Them

It was all a bit too quick for my pace. I like to be able to really observe and absorb the details of what I am looking at, but there was very little time to take it all in. For example, we rushed and passed by many rooms that contained just as interesting though by no means as awe-inspiring art as what we were allowed to see. The Vatican museums are a strange configuration of several buildings that are attached through long corridors and courtyards; easy to get lost and easy to miss out. Yet taking more time than the few hours we had at our disposal would have resulted in student "art fatigue" and to less than satisfying results for our group (which included sets of parents and visiting boyfriends, all of them really nice and great to meet).
Gruppo de Laocoonte Excavated in 1506
Drapping over the Knees


21 Centuries ago...

Nero's Fountain
(Now for a side story: Urie, who YouTubes videos ad nauseum, told me a while back that he wanted for his 15th birthday his official Canadian citizenship and a butterfly knife to learn tricks and blade plays. While being assaulted by vendors and colors in Marrakech, I came upon such a knife for a tenth of the cost I would pay in the states, so I purchased it for Urie. You should know that my son is the most pacifist child ever born; he just thinks that these knives are cool, in the same vein as martial arts' poi or nunchucks--must be a teenager thing. At any rate, since Marrakech, he's been practicing tricks--very safely--and has been carrying his knife in his pocket. Lo and behold, we get to the Vatican, and the tour guide, as a matter of conversation, mentions that knives are forbidden in the building. I see Urie's eyes distend and I KNOW HE'S GOT HIS KNIFE.... I immediately told Federico, who sent Urie off to check it while giving me a short lecture on how we could have been arrested for bringing a weapon in the building. Yikes! Turned out not to be a big deal, but for a moment, I was stunned by the nitwitism of my youngest child. And learned later on that another student was carrying a pocket knife that went undetected by the scanners!)

Hall of  Belgian Tapestries
Hall of Italian Maps


Part of a Raffaelo Fresco

School of Athens
St-Peter's Basilica was beautiful, and the sculptures therein were all made by Bernini (whose work I could not see at the Borghese museum because we ran out of time and my defective computer would not let me log on to make reservations. It was a sad moment for me!) Whether or not the basilica stands where Peter was actually crucified is a matter of conjecture (as far as I am concerned), but the symbolism it carries is probably as important as the facts.
Michelangelo's Pieta

More Basilica Beauty
In the Basilica


Yes... in the Basilica
Finally, yesterday, we attended the Angelus at noon, and Pope Francis gave a very good ten-minute message about love, its abundance and never-ending supply, and the importance of sharing it. Of course, my camera ran out of juice, so I will have to get pictures from a student to share with you. I understood 98% of what he said and translated for the students around me, which led some parents to believe that I am catholic. (I'm not sure I see the connection, but that was an interesting link to make as I was probably the only person from our group who had not purchased rosaries for the benediction of the Holy See!!)

We barely had time to eat a quick lunch (tongues on the menu!) and grab our bags to wait the rain for the bus (which seemed not to want to come). A train ride and a walk in the rain back to the apartment, and we can summarize the following from our trip to Rome: Satisfied students: 100%, Happy parents: 80% (one set left a bag at the hotel, which created quite a few complications for them, I am sorry to report); pickpocketing victims: 0%; desire to come back: 200%.
Off to Florence!
I will have to come back to Rome before the end of our stay because I have missed some of the places I wanted to see: Triveni fountain (closed); Boca della verita (closed); Spanish steps (no time); a dozen museums (no time).  But as they say, All Roads Lead to Rome, so I am sure to come here again!





No comments:

Post a Comment